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A Full Table

Restaurant Bordewijk

Photo by Miguel Gonzalez

Bordewijk's roasted red mullet with a taggiasca olive tapenade.

There are plenty of reasons to explain the packed house at Bordewijk.

One of them is a plate of prawns that ride to the table on sage-scented gnocchi. Another is rosey pigeon, served on a bed of creamy risotto and gilded with shaved black truffles.

To start your meal, there’s a gift from the chef—perhaps a silvery bite of mackerel with a dab of potato remoulade—and to finish there might be a brûlée of pears with saffron-tinged ice cream. Chef Wil Demandt looks around the world for inspiration; the common denominators in his food are prime ingredients and delicious accessories.

Dinner unfolds in a room that also defies easy pegging: Red tables, black chairs, flickering candles and wavy turquoise walls make for an attractive place to spend a few hours.

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