Buenos Airescosmopolitan chic

If you are an art and antiques lover, and a fiend for flea markets, the San Telmo neighborhood will be an important destination for you. Not only are the narrow, cobblestone streets lined with art galleries and antique shops, weekends bring a sprawling outdoor antiques market to Dorrego Square. The atmosphere is festive with street performers coursing through the neighborhood and crowds milling through the maze of tents that hold nearly every type of bauble you could possibly imagine. In spring, summer and fall, tango music emanates from the al fresco cafés, making this old world section of Buenos Aires feel as if time has stood still for decades. Just strolling along the sidewalks past the stone and stucco architecture makes a day in this part of town enjoyable, but added value comes from ducking into the many indoor markets, many of which look enclosed but have statuesque interior courtyards onto which the vendors spill. If you visit on a Sunday and you don’t find it by following the crowd, make your way to Calle Defensa, San Telmo’s main drag, which is closed to traffic to morph into a pedestrian mall for much of the day.