Milwaukee’s working-class, industrial past has merged with a contemporary reputation as a leader in New Urbanism, producing a city that’s evolved beyond its cheesy depiction on television shows such as Laverne & Shirley and Happy Days.
Most of the mid-sized city’s attractions and popular neighborhoods are near Lake Michigan, which serves as the city’s eastern edge. Snaking along the majority of the lakefront from South Milwaukee up to Bayside—essentially passing through all of Milwaukee County—are paved biking or jogging trails that capitalize on a view of the beach. (Even in winter, it’s a gorgeous sight!) Downtown is a hub for living, working and playing, with its Historic Third Ward that’s similar to New York City’s Soho neighborhood (renovated warehouses are now lofts, boutiques and restaurants). Just north of downtown is the East Side, with its hip apparel shops, eateries and bar. South of downtown, the Bay View neighborhood is the East Side’s scrappy sibling, with a similar energy, including art galleries, funky cafés and natural-foods stores.
Start your day at an attraction—Milwaukee Art Museum or with a tour of Miller Brewing Company—and then check out one of the city’s colorful neighborhoods for lunch. Afterward, enjoy the lakefront with a quick stroll or rent a bicycle, and be sure to sink your toes into the sand. Lake Michigan may not have the ocean’s monstrous waves, but its beaches are quiet, contemplative spots, a rarity in most cities. Nighttime is an opportunity to take in a show at the Florentine Opera, the Milwaukee Repertory Theater or Milwaukee Symphony, and if it’s summer there are bound to be at least two ethnic festivals happening on any particular weekend.
Don’t be shy about asking locals for their picks on where to eat, shop and play: Milwaukeeans are very friendly and love to talk up their city.