|
| A view of the colorful ghats that line the banks of the Ganges River. A terrific way to view the city is to take a boat ride either at sunrise or sunset. Photo courtesy of Jason Oliver Nixon. |
After wandering through the color-rich, magical state of Rajasthan and the cities of Udaipur, Jodhpur and Jaipur, I headed to Varanasi, the holiest place in the Hindu religion. Perched upon the Ganges River, Varanasi is an ancient metropolis. Author Mark Twain described it as “older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together.”
The city teems with people, among them the pilgrims—Hindus, Buddhists and Jains—who come to pay homage at Varanasi’s far-flung temples and bathe themselves in the sacred Ganges River. It’s also a place where Hindus cremate their loved ones along the banks of the river, their ashes scattered into the waters.
A visit to Varanasi—even after spending a few weeks in India—is something of a culture shock, especially when contemplating the cremation ceremonies. Yet Varanasi is sublime, a wonderful juxtaposition of the sacred and the secular. The best way to explore the city is to head to the 100-plus bustling ghats, or steps, that reach down to the banks of the Ganges. Then wander from one end to the next. Along the way, you will see people washing their laundry in the river; pilgrims bathing and drying their bright orange robes; vendors selling roses and marigolds; cows and goats wandering about; a game of cricket, a yoga session; or people scattering ashes into the river. This remarkable perambulation carries you through all cycles of life, from birth to death.
By the time you have concluded your walk, you will fall under the city’s mystical spell. As night falls, head to the rooftops overlooking the Dasaswamedh Ghat to watch the daily Ganga Aarti ceremony in which priests wish Mother Ganges a good night.
After experiencing the hustle and bustle, there’s no better retreat than the Taj Nadesar Palace. This amazing hostelry has just 10 suites tucked into a sprawling 42-acre garden in the center of the city. The hotel is a stunner with marble, antiques and gorgeous details. Curled up in bed, I hear the distant screech of a peacock, and I drift off to sleep with visions of smoke swirling in my head.