Even a lifetime New Yorker can’t experience all the city has to offer. There’s a reason many residents and visitors experience FOMO (fear of missing out). The five boroughs are home to more than 1,700 parks, hundreds of cultural and historical sites and 80-plus museums—all of which vie for precious sightseeing or weekend attention. Come evening, patrons of the arts deliberate between dozens of live shows ranging from plays to opera to standup comedy. Foodies similarly suffer from the curse of too many choices: Some 24,000 restaurants dish out cuisines spanning continents, while thousands of bars pour everything from $10,000 martinis to $7 beer-and-shot specials. Needless to say, making the most of your time in the City that Never Sleeps benefits from some advance planning. Here are a few fall highlights—pairing the best of two worlds, the arts and food—to make that task a bit easier.
SHOW-STOPPERS
Anyone with even the faintest interest in Broadway shows is likely familiar with hits such as Wicked, The Book of Mormon and Hamilton, but New York’s theater scene goes well beyond these runaway favorites.
Signature Theater at 42nd Street and 10th Avenue kicks off November with The Death of the Last Black Man in the Whole Entire World, written by Pulitzer Prize winner Suzan-Lori Parks and directed by Lileana Blain-Cruz. The main character is a “last man” who suffers multiple deaths throughout the show and whose experiences reflect those of black people throughout history. Through symbolism, satire, comedy and jazz, he and his fellow characters bring attention to persisting stereotypes that society harbors about African-Americans. Finding a top-notch spot to discuss the performance afterward can be challenging on this westerly stretch of the city, but Fish Bar at North River Landing, a nine-minute walk from the theater, is a beacon for quality bites and drinks. Situated in a three-story yacht, Fish Bar launched earlier this year and now calls Pier 81 home. The menu’s shared plates emphasize seafood, while cocktails with names such as Ibiza Sunrise and Pearlicious pay homage to the decadent waterside location.
Those who prefer dance to drama will delight in the Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater’s latest season, November 30 to December 31, at City Center in Midtown. Ailey was an African-American choreographer who first assembled a group of black modern dancers in 1958. By 1960, those young artists had received international acclaim. The multiracial group now includes 32 dancers and also sponsors workshops and a choreography lab to encourage emerging talent. The dance numbers performed at any given show this winter season will vary, though some include world premieres such as Walking Mad by Johan Inger, a contemporary interpretation of Ravel’s Boléro and Untitled America by Kyle Abraham, a three-part work that brings attention to the prison system’s impact on families across generations. Quality Meats, a six-minute walk from City Center, is an upscale, atmospheric choice for a pre- or postshow meal. The aged bone-in sirloin would satisfy both gourmet and caveman alike, and a side of the memorable corn crème brûlée is not to be missed.
Midtown isn’t the only hub for live entertainment. The Public Theater, an intimate space near Astor Place, brings comedy, music and theater to the East Village and NYU crowds. Its November shows include Party People, about a fictional reunion of former Black Panther and Young Lords members at a modern-day art opening; Women of a Certain Age, in which the Gabriel family awaits and discusses the results of the presidential election over the course of a single night; and Tiny Beautiful Things, a comedy-drama about an online advice columnist who finds direction and inspiration from her readers’ anonymous but deeply personal messages. After the show, pop into Ippudo, a Japanese transplant that dishes out some of New York’s best ramen. Chefs drown thin, Kyushu-style ramen noodles in a milky pork or lighter soy sauce-based broth, then top the steaming concoction with delicious soft-boiled eggs, bamboo shoots, pickled ginger and more. There likely will be a wait for a table, so head to nearby Angel’s Share, a speakeasy concealed behind a door in Village Yokocho, for a cocktail—a Stormy Weather, perhaps? Ippudo will text when your table is ready.
Located a short walk from the Queens Museum, the Queens Theatre in Flushing Meadows Corona Park presents plays, dance and music representative of its home borough’s 2.3 million diverse residents. The theater’s building dates back to the 1964 World’s Fair, when it was used as a 360-degree movie theater dubbed “Theaterama.” It was later renovated and turned into a performing arts space whose mission includes affordability and access. In the Car with Blossom and Len, a play about two sisters coming to terms with the challenges presented by their aging parents, runs in November, while December will showcase a production of A Christmas Carol, complete with musical numbers. Catch a cab afterward and head 15 minutes west to Pollos a la Brasa Mario on Roosevelt Avenue, where gregarious staff members serve generous helpings of home-style Colombian food in a festive, laid-back environment. Save room for breavas con queso (figs with cheese), a traditional dessert.
INSIDER FAVORITES
Those willing to stray off the tourist trail will be rewarded with a deeper look into the city’s history, culture and culinary offerings. Most tourists who make it to the Bronx are bound for the zoo, but The New York Botanical Garden—oft-overlooked though situated just next door—is also well worth a trip. Founded in 1891, the garden serves as a serene 250-acre living museum, home to more than a million plants. Perhaps counterintuitively, winter is one of the best times to visit: November 19 kicks off the 25th annual holiday train show, featuring dozens of tiny locomotives that chug through a lush minicity with 150 hand-built New York landmarks. Weekend “Bar Car” nights add music, ice sculpting and holiday-themed adult beverages to the mix. Afterward, resist the urge to head back to Manhattan. Instead, grab a cab bound for Neerob, an unassuming nearby restaurant that serves some of the most authentic Bangladeshi food in the city. Your best bet is to ask the friendly staff to put an assortment of dishes together so you can sample the full range of Neerob’s unbeatable curries, tandooris, bhartas, biryanis and more.
Ellis Island is a no-brainer destination for history buffs, but what if you also could go behind the scenes to visit the century-old ruins of a hospital that has hardly been touched since the 1950s? If that’s appealing, consider the Ellis Island Hard Hat Tour, an intimate, informative walk through the crumbling complex that once served as the country’s largest public health service hospital. Seamlessly integrated black-and-white photographs by the French artist JR further bring the experiences of some of the 1.2 million immigrants who were treated there to life. Tickets sell out well in advance, so book early. Once back on the mainland, snag a pint at The Dead Rabbit Grocery and Grog in the Financial District. The Irish-owned bar’s sawdust floors and rich wooden interiors are meant to conjure up the city’s mid-19th-century drinking scene—perfect for reflecting on the ghosts of Ellis Island past.
If old hospitals whet your appetite for historic exploration with a touch of the macabre, then Green-Wood Cemetery in Brooklyn should be your next stop. Established in 1838, this 478-acre National Historic Landmark boasts 570,000 permanent residents, including the artist Jean-Michel Basquiat and the composer Leonard Bernstein. Stroll the meandering, tree-covered trails on your own using the cemetery’s self-guided map or app, or join a historic trolley tour led by expert guides. If you visit earlier in the day, order a breakfast sandwich at Southside Coffee—recently hailed as the best in the city. For dinner, try Butterfunk Kitchen for a soul food supper of fried chicken, catfish and brisket with grits.
Immersive and participatory theater has gripped New York in recent years, and this movement is perhaps best exemplified by the meticulously detailed, haunting works of Third Rail Projects. The company’s latest creation, The Grand Paradise, transports visitors to a 1970s tropical resort for an evening of beauty, buffoonery, nostalgia and existential longing. Located on a graffiti-covered street in Bushwick, Brooklyn, the former warehouse now includes a mermaid pool, sandy beaches and chintzy motel rooms. The on-site Shipwreck Lounge serves tiki drinks throughout the performance and into the night, though those looking for something more substantial might try nearby Roberta’s, a “New Brooklyn” pizzeria that bakes its Neapolitan-style pies in a wood-burning oven salvaged from a bankrupt restaurant in Italy. Take to Roberta’s sprawling backyard for the inevitable wait for a table or head across the street to Syndicated, a bar-cum-movie theater that, as of late, is giving yet another old manufacturing warehouse new life.
MUSEUM MUSTS
Certain New York City museums are obvious stops, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Museum of Modern Art, the American Museum of Natural History and the 9/11 Memorial Museum. But it also pays to devote attention to some lesser-known players in the circuit.
The Whitney Museum of American Art recently moved into a chic modern building next to the lovely High Line park in the Meatpacking District. Its permanent collection focuses primarily on 20th- and 21st-century pieces, including works by Jackson Pollock, Man Ray, Cindy Sherman and Andy Warhol. This month, the Whitney also is featuring two temporary exhibitions: three decades of works by the Cuban-born painter Carmen Herrera and Dreamlands, an exploration of the intersection of art and cinema. High Street On Hudson, a four-minute walk from the Whitney, is a good pre- or postmuseum stop. Daytime visitors to this cozy but elegant nook can sample creative bagels and sandwiches on homemade bread and festive salads. If coming for dinner, consider indulging in the excellent $65 tasting menu. Dishes such as Long Island duck with rye grain, charred leeks and turnips and smoked potato gnocchi with sweet corn, pesto and dandelion greens put locally sourced ingredients front and center. The $35 drink pairing gives hat tips to blends from the nearby North Fork and Finger Lakes.
The Tenement Museum on the Lower East Side delves into a unique slice of New York history: the multifamily, multistory buildings that once housed millions of working class immigrants. Built in 1863, 97 Orchard Street was home to some 7,000 people before it became a museum in 1988. The property stood largely vacant for half a century until two historians and social activists discovered it and decided to transform it into a museum. Tours—some of which are delivered by staff educators—include different themes, such as sweatshop workers, the economic depression and health and safety. Advance booking is recommended, and museum visitors also receive a 40 percent discount on expert-led neighborhood walks, with focuses ranging from architecture to food. For those who don’t opt for the food tour, Russ & Daughters Cafe, a one-minute walk from the museum, is an appropriate option for a quick bite. Joel Russ immigrated to NYC from a rural village in what is now southern Poland. After marrying and starting his family, he opened his first store on Orchard Street in 1914. The café opened its doors a century later, and its dishes spotlight the Russes’ renowned smoked fish, knishes, latkes, bagels and more.
Movie and television fans will delight in the Museum of the Moving Image, located a short train ride from Manhattan in Astoria, Queens. The museum opened in 1988 but underwent significant renovations and an expansion in 2011. Its halls house the country’s largest collection of film-related artifacts, including hands-on interactive displays that appeal to visitors of all ages. MoMI’s winter exhibitions include a comprehensive exploration of Jim Henson’s body of work, including more than 50 of his original Muppet puppets, such as Kermit the Frog and Miss Piggy. Stick around for one of the museum’s movie screenings—ranging from mainstream to obscure—or move on to another Astoria highlight: affordable, delicious food from all over the world. A 15-minute train ride brings you to Elias Corner, a Greek favorite and one of the best spots in town for fresh, simply prepared seafood. Rather than distribute menus, waiters invite visitors to pick from the day’s catch displayed in a glass case at the restaurant’s entrance. Greek salads, dips, fried cheese and olive oil-kissed grilled vegetables round out the meal.
New York’s largest borough is also home to the Queens Museum, located on the 1964 World’s Fair grounds at Flushing Meadows Corona Park. With a suggested donation of just $8 for adults (compared to the MET’s $25, for example), the museum is a steal. The pinnacle of the charmingly scattered collection is the Panorama of the City of New York. This sprawling, hyperdetailed, 9,335-square-foot scale model was once the largest in the world and proved to be one of the most popular attractions at the World’s Fair. Other museum highlights include a vast collection of kitschy world’s fair memorabilia and a temporary exhibition of gorgeously bejeweled Tiffany lamps. After the museum, be sure to stroll through the park; its fascinating, faded architectural grandeur is reminiscent of something out of the former Soviet Union. Continuing east brings you to Flushing and the city’s second-largest Chinatown. Fu Run Restaurant, specializing in northeastern Chinese fare, will warm you up with hearty, intensely flavorful plates of fried fish in hot bean paste, Muslim lamb chop, triple delight vegetables and home-style pancakes.