Avenue of the Giants
Standing next to just one adult member of Sequoia sempervirens, aka the Coast Redwood, is a pretty humbling experience. With a mammoth trunk that defies any attempt at a wraparound hug, it soars into the sky, its canopy of leaves hundreds of neck-craning feet above. Now, picture a forest full of these giants, or—better yet—about 200,000 acres of them. That’s what lies some 200 miles north of San Francisco within the coastal California counties of Humboldt and Del Norte, where the trees are protected and unified by a series of state and national parks. There’s a heavily charged atmosphere within a grove of old-growth redwoods (which can live to be 2,000 years old). Their size and splendor produce a heady sensation, similar to the spiritual awe you can feel walking through a man-made cathedral of gigantic proportions, such as St. Peter’s in Rome.
Start your journey in Garberville on Avenue of the Giants, where California’s old Redwood Highway narrows to a two-lane, 31-mile stretch through 52,000-acre Humboldt Redwoods State Park. The road weaves tightly around redwood trees so thick and tall that they darken the sky. The touristy, much-photographed drive-through trees are here (and it will cost you to drive through them), along with dozens of trails that take you miles or mere yards into the redwoods, whichever you choose.
Benbow Hotel & Resort
The historic Tudor-style Benbow Hotel & Resort just south of Garberville offers a distinctive home base from which to explore the area.
Notable trees
For a short but memorable walk, visit Founders Grove, where a 350-foot tree is dedicated to those who first started the movement to protect California’s redwoods in 1918. Here you see the remains of the 1,600-year-old Dyerville Giant, which at 362 feet—that’s 200 feet taller than Niagara Falls—was among the world’s tallest redwoods, until it was knocked over by a neighboring redwood after heavy rains in 1991. Even prone it remains one of the area’s most-visited sites. Nobody saw it fall, but residents nearby said the noise sounded like a train wreck. That’s not surprising, since it weighed about 1 million pounds, as much as a fully loaded 747 jet. Its fall highlights a fatal weakness in redwoods: Although they are sturdy and strong, with bark that is resistant to fire and insects, their root systems are shallow and weak, only a few feet deep.
Trinidad and other must-sees
Another must-see in the area is the 10,000-acre fairy tale expanse of
Rockefeller Forest, named after Standard Oil heir John D. Rockefeller Jr., who contributed some $2 million toward purchasing the acreage in the 1930s. It’s now the largest remaining old-growth redwood forest in the world.
North of Eureka lies Redwood National Park, which encompasses and links the Prairie Creek, Del Norte Coast and Jedediah Smith state parks, with almost 40,000 acres of redwoods. The picturesque town of Trinidad, along one of the most scenic stretches of coastline in the state, is an excellent jumping-off spot for these parks.
Lady Bird Johnson Grove is the dedication site for Redwood National Park and offers a 1.3-mile ridgetop hike. For an incredible beach experience, visit Gold Bluffs at Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, where you’ll see herds of Roosevelt elk wandering the dunes along miles of unspoiled shoreline. Here you’ll also find the popular Fern Canyon hike, a wonderland walk through tall, mossy green fern-covered walls bisected by the meandering Home Creek.
Wherever you end up visiting in Redwood Country, you’ll leave feeling somewhat smaller in stature, but greatly expanded in spirit.
Where to Stay: Benbow Hotel & Resort
In Garberville, the
Benbow Hotel & Resort offers antique furnishings and modern amenities, plus a prime location on the Eel River.
Where to Stay:Trinidad Bay Bed & Breakfast
About 90 miles north, the
Trinidad Bay Bed & Breakfast is a beautifully restored seaside Cape Cod in the heart of the exquisite town of Trinidad. The rooms are plush and the morning breakfast a gourmet’s delight.
Where to Eat: Benbow
In addition to daily afternoon tea and scones, the Benbow’s elegant restaurant offers the finest in regional cuisine. In town, the cozy Woodrose Café is a must for breakfast.
Where to Eat: Moonstone Grill
In Trinidad, the ocean views from the cliff at the Moonstone Grill are breathtaking, so try to get there before sunset. And don’t miss Jason’s homemade cookies at the Trinidad Bay B & B.