Ca d’Oro
Here I am taking in the vista of the Grand Canal from an arcade-shaded balcony at the Ca d’Oro. The Grand Canal waterway serves as the central artery of Venice and bustles with the ever-present vaporetti, the public water buses, as well as gondolas and water taxis. As Truman Capote once said, “Venice is like eating an entire box of chocolate liqueurs in one go.” And this view onto the Grand Canal was truly eye candy nonpareil.
Interior of Ca d'Oro
A classical bust situated within the marble- and mosaic-covered, grotto-like patio on the ground floor of the Ca d’Oro palazzo in Cannaregio. Every square inch of this gorgeous palace boasts intricate decorations and serves as a lasting testament to the former richness and glory of the Venetian Republic.
The Arsenale
Once home to the bustling dockyards that could turn out a Venetian warship in a day, the Arsenale in Castello now sits as a quiet reminder of La Serenissima’s fabled past. Here, a statue of Neptune with trident in hand standing tall in front of one of the two towers flanking the Arsenale shipyard’s entrance.
Piazza San Marco
Morning on the Piazza San Marco.
Photo By: Anthony Lanneretonne
Waitors
Waitors working on the Piazza San Marco. Find many treats and delectables in the cafes and restaurants surrounding the Piazza.
Photo By: Anthony Lanneretonne
Castello Nabe
A view from high onto the Castello district with its always-hopping Riva degli Schiavoni lining the waterfront and its colorful cafes and shops vending mass-produced wares for the tourist trade. Turn off the Riva to discover the neighborhood’s winding byways and quiet canals.
Market Miracles
If you enjoy hitting flea markets, hightail it to the bustling stalls near Cannaregio’s stunning Santa Maria dei Miracoli church for everything from vintage glassware to jewelry and furnishings. I purchased a gorgeous gilt frame and some terrific Murano glass beads. Plus, the people watching here is terrific! A bit off the beaten path but well worth the visit.
Gondoliers
Gondoliers awaiting customers at Campo Santa Maria Formosa.
Photo By: Anthony Lanneretonne
Ca Maria Adele Suite
When deciding on a place to stay while in Venice, look into
Ca Maria Adele. The gorgeous, luxurious suites will leave you wanting for nothing.
Ca Maria Adele Coffee Room
While at Ca Maria Adele, ease into the morning with a caffeinated beverage in the coffee and reading room.
Ca Maria Adele Canal View
Though you are inside, the canals are never far. This is the view from the hotel lobby of a little canal that runs in front of the hotel.
Mamo Pizza
Great pizza is never far when you are in Italy. Try the Da Mamo pizzeria near San Marco.
Photo By: Anthony Lanneretonne
Island of Burano
Famed for its lace-making industry, the island of Burano is well worth the lengthy vaporetto ride to explore its winding streets lined with rainbow-hued homes and shops. After wandering the isle and perhaps sampling Da Romano’s renowned “risotto di go,” risotto with a traditional Venetian fish, “go,” hop over to the intriguing island of Torcello and gape at the exquisite, mosaic-clad church amidst an overgrown, almost mysterious landscape (population: 20).
Gianni Basso
Way off the tourist routes at the far edge of Cannaregio, gregarious (and English-speaking) Gianni Basso crafts hand-printed papers—from calling cards to Christmas greetings—for international tastemakers including actor Hugh Grant and New York social swan Blaine Trump. After perusing his colorful wares, settle in for lunch at nearby Enoteca Ostaria Boccadoro for wonderfully fresh fish.
Centurion Palace Lobby
The reading room in the lobby of the
Centurion Palace allows patrons a bit of calm amid the bustle of Venice.
Photo By: Anthony Lanneretonne
Centurion Palace Fireplace Suite
This plush room offers a great view of the canal—as well as your own fireplace.
Photo By: Anthony Lanneretonne
Centurion Palace Breakfast Room
Enjoy a decadent breakfast in the uber-chic breakfast room at Centurion Palace.
Photo By: Anthony Lanneretonne
Canal Gondolas
View of the Grand Canal from the bank of the Centurion Palace.
Photo By: Anthony Lanneretonne
Mauro El Forner
The Strada Nova is the busy thoroughfare that cuts through Cannaregio and houses a wonderful selection of cafes, shops and bakeries. Among my most favorites is Mauro El Forner for its colorful meringues and wonderful breads.
San Giorgio Maggiore
The glorious island of San Giorgio Maggiore sits to the east of the Giudecca and houses the gorgeous 16th-century Church of San Giorgio Maggiore, designed by renowned architect Andrea Palladio. Come here if only to take the elevator to the top of the Campanile with its stunning views (and without the crowds at the twin-like Campanile across the harbor in Saint Mark’s Square).
Villa Emo
An expensive treat but well worth the cost is a tour of the nearby Veneto region’s Palladian villas with the American-based
Select Italy travel company. During your day-long tour in a private car with a very knowledgeable guide you’ll see such masterpieces as La Malcontenta, the Villa Barbaro, and the gorgeous Villa Emo, pictured here. Lunch in the delicious hill town of Asolo is an especial treat.
Santa Maria della Salute Church
Much of the amazing art you will see while in Venice is within the many churches. Wander into Santa Maria della Salute church in Dorsoduro for an amazing architectural experience.
Photo By: Anthony Lanneretonne
Via Garibaldi
The widest—and least circuitous—street in Venice, the imposing Via Garibaldi cuts through the center of the Castello district and connects the bustling waterfront with the verdant Biennale Gardens. Frankly, the Garibaldi is too “points A to B to C” for me. In Venice I’d rather take the roundabout route and get a bit lost in the journey. Still, the al fresco cafes on the street make for terrific people watching.
Punta della Dogana Contemporary Art Center
Punta della Dogana Contemporary Art Center
Refurbished by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, the historic Punta della Dogana contemporary art center houses François Pinault’s stunning contemporary art collection including works by the likes of American artist Jeff Koons.
Punta della Dogana
View of the grand canal and San Marco Tower from Punta della Dogana.
Photo By: Anthony Lanneretonne
Hotel Cipriani
The resort-like
Hotel Cipriani hunkers down at the far end of the quiet island of Giudecca, just across the harbor from the milling crowds who swarm San Marco. The hotel’s verdant gardens are calm and cooling and house a wonderful swimming pool, the largest in the city.
Piazza Santi Giovanni
Piazza Santi Giovanni and Paolo Sestiere Castello.
Photo By: Anthony Lanneretonne
Hotel Danieli
Fabled and fabulous, the
Hotel Danieli overlooks the harbor at the boundary of the Castello and San Marco districts. Like other 5-star Venetian hostelries, the Danieli is wildly expensive but well worth the splurge if you seek cosseted luxury and panache. The lobby is awash in Murano-glass chandeliers and gilt and is a terrific spot for a tryst over cocktails. I am mad for the hotel’s wonderful concierges who remember each guest by name and sort out dinner reservations with incredible aplomb.
So’frito
I love stumbling upon a gem that doesn’t appear in any of the guidebooks, and So’frito was one such find—a sailboat moored in Castello just down the canal from the entrance to the former Arsenale ship-building docks. Order a paper-wrapped cone of crispy fried fish, calamari, and polenta with a split of Prosecco and watch the ships ply the waters of the harbor. Cheap and decidedly chic!
Madonna dell’Orto Church
If you want to get away from the crowds, I suggest a visit to Cannaregio with its quiet canals and distinctly residential feel. One of the highlights of the neighborhood—and a suggestion of
Lucio Orsoni, whose Orsoni foundry sits in the district—is the stunning Madonna dell’Orto church with its onion-like dome high atop its steeple. The artist Tintoretto is buried to the right of the altar, so naturally the church boasts many of his stunning works of art.
Ponte dell Academia
View of the grand canal and of the Ponte dell Academia.
Photo By: Anthony Lanneretonne
Hilton Molino Stucky Venice
The former Molino Stucky flour mill on the island of the Giudecca has been transformed into the
Hilton Molino Stucky Venice, and the reviews are decidedly mixed: The hotel boasts glorious exterior architecture and a rooftop pool with postcard-perfect views. Sadly, the interior of the hotel has very little spirit of place. Still, if you are looking for an American hotel experience in Venice, this is definitely worth checking out. Next door to the hotel is the glorious
Fortuny fabric factory, so be sure to pop in for a look at the gorgeous textiles.
Piazza San Marco at Night
Nighttime view of Piazza San Marco.
Photo By: Anthony Lanneretonne
Domus Orsoni
A cozy bed & breakfast situated next door to the Orsoni foundry in the heart of Cannaregio, the
Domus Orsoni features glittering mosaics that wrap ‘round the guest rooms. If you’re looking for an especially novel experience, sign up for one of the foundry’s two week-long mosaic classes.
Fritto Misto
Fritto Misto, situated next to the vaporetto stop on the island of Burano, offers crispy, delicious fried seafood paired with crunchy potatoes, a perfect snack while waiting for the water bus to hop to the nearby island of Torcello.
Sun Setting Over the Canal
A traffic jam of sorts upon the Grand Canal with gondolas and water taxis passing in front of the brand-new
Centurion Palace Hotel and the Church of Santa Maria della Salute, built to ward off a plague that afflicted the Venetian Republic in the 17th century.
Sunset in Venice
A dramatic twilight shot with the sun setting behind the domes of Santa Maria della Salute church. I snapped this photo whilst aboard the vaporetto en route from Castello to the island of the Giudecca where I was meeting friends for cocktails in the garden at the tucked-away
Hotel Cipriani.
Ponte dell Academia Canal View
View of the grand canal from the Ponte dell Academia.
Photo By: Anthony Lanneretonne
Night on the Canals
Enjoying the relaxing evening on the canals.
Photo By: Anthony Lanneretonne