Praguecity of many spires

From its big concert halls to its intimate jazz dives, Prague loves its music. But few venues anywhere can compare to the maestro-inflected air of the Estates Theater, known locally as Stavovské Divadlo, a Baroque construction where Mozart himself conducted the premiere of his own Don Giovanni in 1787 (and which also saw the premiere of Mozart’s La Clemenza di Tito in 1791). Believed to be the world’s only theater still standing where the great composer himself once performed, the Estates Theatre is the scene of living history, never more so than during one of the frequent Mozart productions that are presented here by troupes from the Czech National Theater. And the next time you see the Oscar-winning film Amadeus, parts of which were shot inside, you can say, “I’ve been there.”